Friday, 5 September 2014

Ceuse

In August we went on a wee trip to Ceuse. This was my third climbing trip abroad (Sardinia and Kalymnos being the other 2) and it was definitely the hardest so far. The walk-in was a pretty good warm up - an hour uphill in  the heat! We chose to carry our bags up everyday instead of stashing them like everyone else does, this made it a bit harder but was defo good training.

Unfortunately we only had a week, which meant 4 climbing days after travelling and rest days. The first couple of days we just did a bit of milage, trying lots of 6s. These were pretty exciting as they were usually really technical and run-out!


View from our hotel

Harley Davidson 6b


After getting used to the pocket, polished style of climbing we decided to try a couple of 7as. The first was called Nitassinan. I managed to get through the tricky start first go thought it was going to ease off when I was caught out on another crux high up. After working out the tricky sequence me and Neill both got the route on our second attempt. We did another 7a called Saint Georges Picos just next to this one. Neill put the clips in and came off the cruxy start, he managed it on his second go. With the clips in and Neill's beta I managed it on my first attempt.




On our last day we went along to the Cascade sector which is a bit steeper. We both did the classic 6c Medecine Douce and then Neill climbed a really desperate 7a+ called Women. I thought I should try something a bit harder and so went for the classic 7b Super Mickey. Unfortunately I slipped off at the second clip on my first try because I lowered back tot he ground and managed it to the top first go! It was a pretty cool route with a some big moves between humungous pockets and a tricky crux at the top.






I think this was my favourite trip yet, it's such a lovely location and I really loved the crimpy style of climbing. Next time we will definitely go for a bit longer! Our last day spent at the beach in Nice was also amazing...










Tuesday, 15 July 2014

The last few months...

I have realised that I have been neglecting my blog a little bit recently so as I get out over the summer I'll pop on some more posts and photos. 
I have been concentrating more on sport climbing this year and so have been on a few days out sport climbing and even went on a trip to Kalymnos (an island off Greece) in May.
It was my first visit to Kalymnos and only my second climbing trip abroad so we made it more of a milage trip rather than a hard climbing trip. Here are some photos....

Neill on Trela 7a

DNA 7a




Comfy wee seat!




Selfie with a goat..





 
 
 
 


We have also been on a couple of trips down to Yorkshire sampling some of the routes at Malham and Kilnsey. I really enjoyed climbing at Kilnsey because it has a 2 minute walk in and there were lots of crimpy routes which suited me perfectly! We warmed up on a 6b+ and a 6c and then both managed WYSIWYG, a cool little 7b, on our second go. I also tried a tricky wee 7c called Biological Need a couple of times and managed to get up to the last clip! Next time!



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This year I have really been developing my route-setting and even helped out setting for the British youth climbing series final at Ratho as well as a couple of days up at Aberdeen for a prep event. Hopefully next year I will be able to help set for the European Youth Championships at Ratho!

I have noticed big improvements in my sport climbing as we have been training loads and trying all the hard routes from the recent comps. This will definitely come in useful on our other trips planned this year, Ceuse (France) in August and Kalymnos again in October!






Tuesday, 14 January 2014

Cairngorms

Yesterday Neill and I headed up to the Cairngorms for my first ever winter climbing day. We went to Sneachda a few weeks ago but the conditions weren't very good. Yesterday was a lovely sunny, cold day and so we walked back in to Sneachda with the intention of climbing a route on Fiacaill Buttress. We left Edinburgh at 5am (one of the worst things about winter climbing) and arrived at a surprisingly busy car park at 8ish. There were quite a few people climbing but luckily Invernookie, the route we were planning to climb was free. The slope up to the bottom of the route made my legs burn, they continued to burn for the rest of the route as i was on my toes all the time, even on the belays! Definitely need to build up my pathetic calf muscles....

The route was pretty exciting as it was totally covered in powder and so it was pretty difficult to find any gear. I think we placed about 5 bits on the whole route! Neill ran out of rope trying to run two pitches together and had to belay halfway up a pitch with no gear, just his ice axes buried in some snow. Probably pretty safe but freaked me out! This meant i had to lead the rest of the pitch which had no gear up to a belay with only two tiny nuts. I was pretty relieved to make it to the top after being covered in spindrift on the top pitch. There was so much falling on me that i pretty much climbed the last pitch with my eyes closed! Overall, it was tiring, cold, and really scary....now i understand why people like it ... :-D