Tuesday, 28 October 2014

Climbynos...

I have just returned from an amazing trip to Kalymnos, our second trip there this year. I felt a big improvement since our last trip in May, moving a lot more confidently on the massive tufas and stalactites.
We flew over to Kos on the 7th, only just catching the ferry to Kalymnos after our flight was delayed. When we arrived at our apartment we found out that they had double-booked our room and so they put us up in a fancy hotel for the night, not too shabby!


Our first day was spent at Panorama doing a few easy routes to get into the swing of things. We warmed up on a couple of 6bs and then I onsighted 'Joggel and Toggel' 6c+ and 'Commandant Marcos' 7a. We finished up on a 6b+ further right and headed back down for a swim!


The next day we hired a car and ventured further round the island, a first for both me and Neill. Joining us was our friend Pete and our new American friend (who we also bumped into in Ceuse!) Mike. We decided to visit Arhi which turned out to be a great crag but unfortunately quite polished. We warmed up on a 6b bridgy/tufa route which I didn't find too enjoyable due to the slopy pinches and the shiny footholds. We then jumped straight onto the classic 7a 'Kastor'. I found this route pretty powerful with a couple of big reaches but luckily there was a nice knee-bar rest to recover.
While we were trying this, Mike was putting the clips in 'Eros' a 3 star 7b+. This route consisted of a hard boulder problem at the 4th clip then steady climbing through big stalactites to the top. Neill tried it first and came off at the crux after using some dodgy beta, he then worked out a better way and cruised to the top. I managed to get through the crux with Neill's better sequence and then knee-barred my way to the top. This was my first 7b+ flash so I was pretty chuffed! Neill dispatched the route easily on his second go.
Great success!

Neill on Eros 7b+
starting up Eros



Pete and Neill




After we both did Eros the sun crept round onto Arhi and so we decided to drive round to a crag called Local Freezer which was in the shade all afternoon. I put the clips on a 7a+, falling once at the top from a massive reach round a roof. I did the route second go and had to scrape my face along the rock to make the big reach! Neill flashed the route and then we drove back for some ice cream and a swim!

Local Freezer...

Steeeeep!




Neill was coaching for the next 5 days and so we got less climbing done, however, I still managed to squeeze in some routes with Pete. We went to Spartacus on the first day and I tried 'Gladiator' 7b. I slipped off the really tricky crux at the bottom but managed it on my second attempt!


I also visited Iannis with Pete and repeated some routes that I did in May. Pete just missed out on 'Adolf in the Bay' 6c+ coming off right at the last clip! I attempted what I thought was a 7a+ to the right and had an absolute epic, I then found out that this was a new 7b+ that wasn't in the guide!
We went to Odessey twice during the trip, the first time Neill was coaching and so I only did a couple of easier routes over on the right. The second time we went was great as Neill managed to redpoint 'Polifemo' 7c and I managed to onsight lots of lowers 7s including 'Lucky Luca' 7b, 'lucky Strike' 7b, 'Islands in the Sun' 7a+ and 'Fouska' 7a.


Islands in the Sun 7a+

Bridgetastic!

No hands!




Our last day was the best by far, even though we were tired from the previous day we decided to beast ourselves anyway. We had planned to visit the much talked about Secret Garden crag but it was pretty windy and cold so thought the North facing crag might be too cold. We headed to Firewall instead as it would be in the sun. This crag was absolutely heaving and after warming up on a chossy 6c, we decided just to jump on the classic 7b+ 'Firewall'. Neill impressively onsighted it putting the clips in and then I surprisingly managed to flash it straight after! With not much else to try and the temperature rising, we headed down for a coke and drove round to Secret Garden. This crag has lots of good low to mid 7s and so we decided to try and do seven 7s in a day! In the end we managed 8, all onsight/flash (including Firewall) and headed back for a well deserved Schnitzel! The routes we done were...'Crisis' 7a, 'Ricounet' 7a, 'Ikariotikos' 7b, 'Adolflahaut' 7a+, 'Ballos' 7a+, 'Pomponpidoux' 7b and 'Sam Suffit' 7a.



We are already planning to go back to Kalymnos next October, possibly for longer and have also booked a trip to Costa Blanca in January!







Friday, 5 September 2014

Ceuse

In August we went on a wee trip to Ceuse. This was my third climbing trip abroad (Sardinia and Kalymnos being the other 2) and it was definitely the hardest so far. The walk-in was a pretty good warm up - an hour uphill in  the heat! We chose to carry our bags up everyday instead of stashing them like everyone else does, this made it a bit harder but was defo good training.

Unfortunately we only had a week, which meant 4 climbing days after travelling and rest days. The first couple of days we just did a bit of milage, trying lots of 6s. These were pretty exciting as they were usually really technical and run-out!


View from our hotel

Harley Davidson 6b


After getting used to the pocket, polished style of climbing we decided to try a couple of 7as. The first was called Nitassinan. I managed to get through the tricky start first go thought it was going to ease off when I was caught out on another crux high up. After working out the tricky sequence me and Neill both got the route on our second attempt. We did another 7a called Saint Georges Picos just next to this one. Neill put the clips in and came off the cruxy start, he managed it on his second go. With the clips in and Neill's beta I managed it on my first attempt.




On our last day we went along to the Cascade sector which is a bit steeper. We both did the classic 6c Medecine Douce and then Neill climbed a really desperate 7a+ called Women. I thought I should try something a bit harder and so went for the classic 7b Super Mickey. Unfortunately I slipped off at the second clip on my first try because I lowered back tot he ground and managed it to the top first go! It was a pretty cool route with a some big moves between humungous pockets and a tricky crux at the top.






I think this was my favourite trip yet, it's such a lovely location and I really loved the crimpy style of climbing. Next time we will definitely go for a bit longer! Our last day spent at the beach in Nice was also amazing...










Tuesday, 15 July 2014

The last few months...

I have realised that I have been neglecting my blog a little bit recently so as I get out over the summer I'll pop on some more posts and photos. 
I have been concentrating more on sport climbing this year and so have been on a few days out sport climbing and even went on a trip to Kalymnos (an island off Greece) in May.
It was my first visit to Kalymnos and only my second climbing trip abroad so we made it more of a milage trip rather than a hard climbing trip. Here are some photos....

Neill on Trela 7a

DNA 7a




Comfy wee seat!




Selfie with a goat..





 
 
 
 


We have also been on a couple of trips down to Yorkshire sampling some of the routes at Malham and Kilnsey. I really enjoyed climbing at Kilnsey because it has a 2 minute walk in and there were lots of crimpy routes which suited me perfectly! We warmed up on a 6b+ and a 6c and then both managed WYSIWYG, a cool little 7b, on our second go. I also tried a tricky wee 7c called Biological Need a couple of times and managed to get up to the last clip! Next time!



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
This year I have really been developing my route-setting and even helped out setting for the British youth climbing series final at Ratho as well as a couple of days up at Aberdeen for a prep event. Hopefully next year I will be able to help set for the European Youth Championships at Ratho!

I have noticed big improvements in my sport climbing as we have been training loads and trying all the hard routes from the recent comps. This will definitely come in useful on our other trips planned this year, Ceuse (France) in August and Kalymnos again in October!