Friday, 5 September 2014

Ceuse

In August we went on a wee trip to Ceuse. This was my third climbing trip abroad (Sardinia and Kalymnos being the other 2) and it was definitely the hardest so far. The walk-in was a pretty good warm up - an hour uphill in  the heat! We chose to carry our bags up everyday instead of stashing them like everyone else does, this made it a bit harder but was defo good training.

Unfortunately we only had a week, which meant 4 climbing days after travelling and rest days. The first couple of days we just did a bit of milage, trying lots of 6s. These were pretty exciting as they were usually really technical and run-out!


View from our hotel

Harley Davidson 6b


After getting used to the pocket, polished style of climbing we decided to try a couple of 7as. The first was called Nitassinan. I managed to get through the tricky start first go thought it was going to ease off when I was caught out on another crux high up. After working out the tricky sequence me and Neill both got the route on our second attempt. We did another 7a called Saint Georges Picos just next to this one. Neill put the clips in and came off the cruxy start, he managed it on his second go. With the clips in and Neill's beta I managed it on my first attempt.




On our last day we went along to the Cascade sector which is a bit steeper. We both did the classic 6c Medecine Douce and then Neill climbed a really desperate 7a+ called Women. I thought I should try something a bit harder and so went for the classic 7b Super Mickey. Unfortunately I slipped off at the second clip on my first try because I lowered back tot he ground and managed it to the top first go! It was a pretty cool route with a some big moves between humungous pockets and a tricky crux at the top.






I think this was my favourite trip yet, it's such a lovely location and I really loved the crimpy style of climbing. Next time we will definitely go for a bit longer! Our last day spent at the beach in Nice was also amazing...